SKU: 75197620560
brake pedal box

brake pedal box Garagistic - E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup) - Boosterless Conversion

Sale price$20.16 Regular price$22.40
Save 10%

Pay in installments of $5.60 with ShopPay, AfterPay and Klarna

Shipping Estimate
USA
  • USA
  • CAN

Ships within 48 hours · Estimated delivery Sep 2 - Sep 7

Promo Codes Available:

For Your Every Summer RSVP, with Code: SUMMER15

Description

brake pedal box Garagistic - E30 Brake Booster Delete Bracket (Wilwood/ Tilton Pedal Box Setup) - Boosterless ConversionE30 BRAKE BOOSTER DELETE BRACKET (FOR WILWOOD AND TILTON PEDAL BOX) Overview It's no secret. The brake booster relocation is the hardest part of the V8 into E30 swap! The factory booster is in the way. Some choose to use E32 E34 booster setup and relocate behind the headlight. This is costly, requires lots of custom work, clutters engine bay, and requires the removal or relocation of the complete ABS setup including brake lines. With this boosterless

E30 BRAKE BOOSTER DELETE BRACKET (FOR WILWOOD AND TILTON PEDAL BOX)

Overview

It's no secret. The brake booster relocation is the hardest part of the V8 into E30 swap! The factory booster is in the way. Some choose to use E32/E34 booster setup and relocate behind the headlight. This is costly, requires lots of custom work, clutters engine bay, and requires the removal or relocation of the complete ABS setup including brake lines. With this boosterless brake setup bracket, swap time is shorter, and the swap is cleaner. Our boosterless brake bracket allows you to use wilwood or tilton pedals/master cylinders. Everything is relocated tightly and neatly under the dash in the factory pedal area. When the conversion is done, it's all hidden! Simply mount the reservoirs in your engine bay and that's the only giveaway. Easy way to get a wilwood pedal box for your E30.

Dont forget to order a plastic version of the e30 underdash panel if you are missing yours or dont want to cut your OEM unit with this panel: E30 under dash panel. Also, our plumbing kit makes this job even easier!

HOW IS THE E30 BRAKE BOOSTER DELETE BRACKET MOUNTED?

Mounting (body side) consists of three of the factory holes under the dash + three holes near the firewall that need to be drilled. The bracket is completely assembled and tig welded (certified welder) on arrival. All hardware is supplied. Pedal assembly is not included. We recommend using Wilwood 340-11299 Brake and Clutch Pedal Assembly

WHAT SIZE MASTER CYLINDERS SHOULD I USE WITH MY BOOSTERLESS DELETE SETUP?

We recommend using masters with 5/8" bore front and rear for factory-sized or similar brakes. These are the most compact masters and the smaller bore means that effort will be bearable (especially if you plan to run these on the street). You will also need 3 master cylinders. 2 for the brakes and 1 for the clutch. For most customers, a 5/8 bore for the brakes keeps the pedal effort to a minimum and safe. The clutch will be a 3/4 bore. The correct 5/8 master cylinders needed can be found here: Wilwood 260-10371 Short 5/8" Bore Master Cylinder Kit For the 3/4 bore (clutch) we recommend this version: 3/4"BORE, WILWOOD, PART # 260-10372 IF YOU ARE USING LARGER PISTON BRAKES SUCH AS E36 COMPONENTS YOU WILL WANT TO USE LARGE 3/4" BORE MASTER CYLINDERS FOR THE BRAKES. PLEASE CONTACT US IF YOU REQUIRE THIS SETUP!

We now carry Wilwood pedals and master cylinders in a package deal. Simply select the option above to "add pedals and master cylinders" and you will get everything needed to bolt the boosterless Wilwood into your E30. You will get the adjustable pedal assembly (340-11299), two 5/8 Wilwood master cylinders, and one 3/4 master cylinders.

If you would like different bore sizes to let us know and we can change them. Otherwise, these recommended default bores will be selected. The general rule of thumb: Bigger bores: Minimal pedal travel/stiffer pedal/higher pedal effort. Smaller bores: Long pedal travel/softer pedal/less pedal effort. All grade 8 hardware included. Pedals/master cylinders/brake switch are not included and must be bought. This is for the conversion bracket and hardware only. This pedal mount does not work with airbag steering columns. To use this mount in an airbag car, a non-airbag steering column must be installed first. Uses three of the factory holes under the dash + three holes near the firewall that need to be drilled. Works on left-hand drive cars only.

Please note: We no longer include the 3 brass fittings picture as we upgraded to better fittings that are included in the plumbing kit. Instructions can be found here

"

Shipping Notes
  • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
  • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
  • Delivery to the USA:
  1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
  • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 75197620560

Discover Niche Categories That Outsell brake pedal box

Top-Converting Item to Boost Your Average Order

4.8 ★★★★★
Based on 6 reviews
Sort
Highest Rating
Newest First
Oldest First
Product Reviews
A
Verified Purchase
Advanced Marine Technology
Lowell, US
★★★★★ 5
VEPURLT Alighnment Tool
Great quality and shipped very quickly
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 26, 2026
M
mike
Bozeman, US
★★★★★ 5
Helpful Tool Kit for MerCruiser Maintenance
This tool kit made servicing the gimbal bearing and checking engine alignment much easier than improvising with generic tools. The machining looks solid and the tools fit properly with MerCruiser components. Helpful set for anyone doing their own marine maintenance work. Definitely useful to have around for sterndrive service jobs.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2026
J
Jo Bo
Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 5
Saves So Much Time, Perfect Fit On Mercruiser Pre-Alpha Outdrive.
This is a very useful kit. Perfect fit to exchange and align the gimbal bearing on a Mercruiser MR/Pre-Alpha Outdrive. The metal rods are strong and well machined to fit the gimbal bearing and the template lines up great with the housing studs. The overall production quality is very good. Great value because the tools are very durable but for me the biggest value is the time saved. I had the bearing out in about 10 minutes. The ability to line up the bearing before attempting to attach the outdrive upper gear unit is very convenient and saves so much time. This are simple tools, very easy to use.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 1, 2026
R
Rick
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to use
Works great
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 9, 2026
S
Verified Purchase
Steve M.
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 5
Works well. You need to drill a 3/8” hole
Appears to be well made, alignment bar slides in nicely. As stated, you need to drill a hole in the bar for the gimble bearing driver, the directions are not clear, what I did was before I take out the old gimble bearing, put an O ring on the bar close to the last step on the bar, slide the bar all the way in, then carefully slide the bar out, this marks the distance from the back of the gimble bearing to where the shaft on the outdrive bottoms out, move the O ring a 1/4” towards the stepped part of the alignment tool (this is so you won’t bottom out the alignment tool when driving the gimble bearing in) then slide the driver puck up to the O ring and use a 3/8” diameter transfer punch through the side hole in the puck to mark the bar. You need to drill a 3/8” diameter hole in the alignment bar, two V blocks, some clamps, and a drill press will make drilling much easier, after the bar is securely mounted and centered in the drill press, use a center drill, then 1/4” drill first, using plenty of oil, drill all the way through, then use the 3/8” drill, deburr both sides and you should be good to go. People complain that it doesn’t come pre-drilled, the reason is that not all out drives are the same so you have to fit it to the outdrive that you have. Fortunately, I have a machine shop at my house and have a jig setup with various drill bushings, but the method I described above should work for you. Just make sure you’re perfectly centered and secure before you start drilling.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on April 16, 2026

recommand products